You can only go so far to "get away from it all." When you reach a certain waypoint, a new goal emerges, and it's no longer about what you're getting away from at all.
It's about what you're getting INTO.
Every year, thousands of lucky explorers find that waypoint with absolute certainty, and the adventure that unfolds for them can be nothing short of life-changing.
The River of No Return Wilderness and its namesake trunk stream are easy to find on any map. The 2.4 million-acre swath of public property is one of America's last great places, completely devoid of roads, towns and cell towers. In the purest sense of the phrase, it is God's Country. In the fall of 2012, we had the chance to sample it for ourselves thanks to fortuitous timing, beautiful weather and some outrageously good hospitality.
"When folks book a trip down here they're gonna experience everything from wows, oohs and awes to marveling at just how deep the canyon is," notes veteran guide and wilderness sage Kevin Yeates. "And the fishing is awesome. We have some great holes that we fish, and it's semi-private to private down here. We just don't see other fishermen down here, or any other boats."
Yeates, the owner of River of No Return Lodge, is one of a small handful of recreational service providers who ply the rocky waters of the Salmon's roadless section.
"It's an awesome experience--one you'll talk about for years, even if you only get a chance to do it one time," he said.
Our trip was geared heavily toward steelhead fishing, and it began where all land-lubbing journeys must end--at Corn Creek Campground. Here we were greeted by Yeates and his crew aboard the lodge's twin jet boats. The larger of the two vessels, "Ole Glory," carried our entire party of eight, plus all our gear.
From the moment Yeates pulled up to the ramp, the hospitality was in full force. With a few cautionary notes on jet-boating basics and a special christening of the forthcoming adventure, Ole Glory pulled from the shore, fired her twin Hamilton jets and ferried us into a roadless circus of rocky cliffs, towering trees and raging waters.
"No cell phones down here -- no phones of ANY kind, actually," Yeates told us. One of our party (who shall go unnamed) had a short panic attack at this news. Luckily for him (and the rest of us), the freakout was a distant memory by the time we hit our first fishing hole.
Yeates and his crew will pamper you as much or as little as you wish. Clientele run the gamut from sightseers to accomplished lifelong bear hunters. His real forte, however, is the game of hook, line and sinker.
"It is a full guided operation, but most of our fishermen have been here several times -- we have a lot of returning guests who definitely know how to fish," he said. "We don't rent poles or fishing gear, so you need to bring all your own tackle for those types of trips. Other than that, we'll supply all the food and fun you need."
Yeates' expertise as a guide goes far beyond his skills in spotting steelhead haunts and navigating rapids. On our adventure, he quickly proved himself to be the frontier version of a renaissance man.
"The basic job title is A to Z," he told us. "One day you're a maid. One day you're a waitress. Then you're driving a boat, and then you're cleaning fish. It's all great."
At the heart of the operation is Yeate's home turf--the River of No Return Lodge (www.riverofnoreturnlodge.com), perched above the rocky banks some 18 miles downstream of Corn Creek. Considering its absolute seclusion, the accommodation it provides is second to none, especially when you factor in the delicious home-cooked meals.
"We have a really nice lodge facility. It's very large -- plenty of room for 16-18 folks in there plus the crew," Yeates said. "In order to run a lodge like this and operate these boats, you have to have quite a diverse background." "I'm not saying I'm very good at a lot of things, but I can do a lot of things well enough to things going."
Steelheading hits its stride in late February through March, and again in the fall from October through late November. Both two- and three-night stays are available with up to 12 anglers per trip. According to Yeates, the fish run from 4 to 16 pounds.
Summer trout fishing on area feeder creeks can also be an exhilarating experience. He notes that each day, you'll ride the boat to a different stream. "We'll just tie it up, spend the day fishing, then return to the lodge for a home cooked meal and a relaxing evening. It's not uncommon for our anglers to catch and release 100 trout per day."
The domestic quarry includes rainbow and West Slope cutthroat up to 19 inches.
Whether you're just enjoying the ride, casting for trophy fish or completing the hunt of a lifetime, the River of No Return experience has a way of leaving its mark on your heart and mind.
"If you ever get a chance to do this, don't turn it down," advises Yeates. "Whether it's with us or one of the other lodges, get down here and see this river. It's awesome."
Into the Wild In Style
Great gear makes all the difference
Aside from the first-class hospitality of Kevin Yeates and his crew with the River of No Return Lodge, we were also blessed with some fantastic gear and apparel from Cabela's. All-weather gloves, headwear and cozy under-layers kept us comfy throughout the trip. Some particular items worthy of mention include a new line of Gore-Tex Guidewear suits, cold-weather base-layer outfits and an awesome rod/reel setup that was perfect for hooking steelies.
* Gore-Tex Guidewear Xtreme Parka & Bibs
Most of our trip was fairly decent weather, but when it wasn't, this outfit saved the day. It's totally waterproof but it's also breathable. It's got pockets all over the place. The best pockets of all are the fleece-lined hand-warmer pouches. The parka also has a chin guard, articulated sleeves for easy of casting and a retractable tool attachment. The bibs feature a crotch gusset to add mobility. Other highlights include zip-to-thigh leg openings, hook-and-loop adjustments at cuff, heavy-duty shoulder straps and quick-release buckles.
* E.C.W.C.S. Thermal Zone Polartec Power Dry Base Layer System
It's a mouthful to say, but these base-layer garments are simple in their delivery of warmth and comfort. The heaviest "Polar Weight" is used in core and maximum-exposed areas to provide optimal heat retention. A mid-weight fabric is employed in less critical areas and the lightest "Tech Weight" is located in high-heat-output areas that are prone to excessive perspiration. The crew and 1/4-Zip Mock T-Neck tops have a drop tail and thumbholes. Bottoms have an elastic waistband and functional fly.
* Shimano Curado G/Cabela's XML Casting Combo
Steelhead are fun to catch, to say the least. But they are notoriously tricky to entice. It takes a fair amount of control and precision to make a good presentation. This setup does the trick and then some. The Curado’s variable brake system is especially useful, providing reduced tangles. The line lays nice and even on the spool, and the drag puts you in complete control of the fight. It's lightweight, strong and has a nice ergonomic design. The XML graphite rods are perfectly matched to this reel, featuring lightweight, stainless steel guides, double-coated with black chrome for maximum corrosion resistance. The sensitivity is incredible -- perfect when you're trying to gauge the difference between a steelie's bump and a random rock.
For more goodies, check out www.cabelas.com.
About the River of No Return
Ranking as the second largest Wilderness in the National Wilderness Preservation System is only one of the many attributes of which the Frank Church-River of No Return can boast.
Its namesake, Frank Church (Senator and lawyer) played a major role in passage of the Wilderness Act in 1964, and in the creation of the River of No Return Wilderness in 1980. The treacherous waters of the Main Salmon River slice through a chasm deeper than the Grand Canyon—hence its moniker as the River of No Return.
Portions of this 2.4 million acre Wilderness are located on five different national forests—the Boise, Bitterroot, Nez Perce, Payette, and Salmon-Challis. Many of its visitors venture into these wild lands on the river corridors of both the Main and Middle Fork of the Salmon River.
Idaho Falls magazine staffers had the good fortune to tap into this remote corner of God's country thanks to the gracious hospitality of Outfitter Kevin Yates, proprietor of the River of No Return Lodge.
Check out the video recap of our adventure on the VIDEO page at www.idahofallsmagazine.com.
Source: U.S. Dept. of Agriculture/Forest Service